Gryphon's Aeire Food Fact - Eggs

Can't beat eggs for versatility in cooking

Wednesday, May 31, 2000

By HSIAO-CHING CHOU
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER FOOD WRITER

The egg, in all its simplicity, is rather complex.

Contained within an ovoid case is a creamy yolk suspended in a cloak 
of thick albumen, which, in turn, is surrounded by a thin albumen.

In its entirety, it can be cooked in hot water to a specific inner 
consistency: soft enough to require a spoon or solid enough to slice.

The yolk and white, in a pristine state, can be fried, poached or 
baked. Invade their concentric boundaries with a few quick strokes, 
and a scramble, omelet or frittata is moments away.

Barely any effort is necessary to create a meal from such a singular 
ingredient. And yet, the delicate egg bears the collective weight of 
cuisine and being a divine muse.

Its alchemical character allows it to perform as a leavener, binder, 
thickener, glaze, clarifier, emulsifier, coloring agent, moisturizer 
and flavor enhancer.

A custard, mayonnaise, soufflé or meringue would not be were it not 
for eggs. Minus eggs, pound cake, spaghetti carbonara and pain perdu 
would be lost indeed.

Symbolically, the egg represents creation, springtime renewal, life.

In literature, the soft-cooked egg has inspired meditative passages 
by Frank McCourt, Andre Aciman and Toni Morrison. M.F.K. Fisher, in 
her deliciously evocative style, wrote: "Probably one of the most 
private things in the world is an egg until it is broken."

A stunning piece of work, an egg.

"Eggs are everywhere and eggs are huge," says Marie Simmons, author 
of "The Good Egg" (Houghton Mifflin, 446 pages, $27). "There is only 
the rare person who can't stand eggs."

Simmons, whose book includes more than 200 recipes for everything 
from soup to desserts, hatched the idea to write an egg cookbook 
after a discussion on food memories. She recalled her childhood 
Saturday morning ritual of dipping buttered toast strips into the 
yolk of a soft-cooked egg served in a colorful Mexican egg cup.

"Eggs are very special in the minds and hearts of children," Simmons 
says. "They're a complete food for us."

An egg is nutrient-dense, with plenty of protein and a range of 
vitamins and minerals.

Eggs once were considered unhealthy because the yolk is high in 
cholesterol, and high cholesterol in the blood has been linked to 
heart disease.

But further research showed that cholesterol in a particular food 
doesn't directly affect the cholesterol level in blood. So, eating 
eggs in a balanced diet is OK.

When we think of eggs, it's usually the hen eggs that come in dozen 
cartons at the grocery store. We buy what's most economical. For most 
purposes, those eggs suffice. Remember to buy from a market that has 
high turnover and keeps eggs in a refrigerated case.

In addition to the generic white hen eggs, you often will find brown 
ones. Though some swear by brown eggs, the only difference between 
white and brown is the color, which indicates only what kind of 
chicken laid the eggs.

Eggs from free-range chickens are available, too. That means the 
chickens are allowed to roam outdoors, giving them a better diet, 
which generally produces a more flavorful egg.

It's also possible to buy eggs that have been enhanced with 
nutrients, such as omega-3 fatty acids found in fish. "But," says 
Simmons, "I find that generic supermarket eggs aren't the best. 
They're not the egg I'd choose for my morning egg because it's the 
Wonder Bread of eggs."

To truly taste an egg, Simmons suggests getting farm-fresh eggs, 
which can be bought at farmers markets. If they have been 
refrigerated properly, eggs that are only one- to two-days old have 
superb flavor.

"Freshness and taste are two different things," she says. "Taste has 
everything to do with what the hen eats. Freshness is how well the 
eggs are handled (which is important to taste, too).

"An egg stored at room temperature will age more in one day than an 
egg stored in the refrigerator for seven days."

If you're looking for variety, try goose, duck, turkey or quail eggs. 
Look for them at farmers markets or go to Pike Place Market Creamery.

"People are fascinated by the novelty of these eggs," says Rusty Sue, 
an employee at the creamery (who goes only by her first name). "But, 
someone might eat duck eggs, for example, if they're allergic to 
chicken eggs."

The taste difference among these eggs, to some, may be negligible. 
But, says Rusty Sue, the eggs can be distinguished. "Duck eggs have a 
richer yolk and are higher in fat. Some people prefer to bake with 
them."

The whites are more gelatinous, too. Custards, meringues, mousses, 
curds, cakes benefit from duck eggs.

Goose eggs are similar to hen eggs, except the taste is more 
pronounced. "The best I can describe it is that they have a 'wild' 
taste," Rusty Sue says.

She adds that quail eggs are traditionally used in Japanese cuisine, 
and the French like to fry them to use as a garnish or hard-cook them 
for a terrine.

The creamery offers Aracauna eggs, which are free-range and have pale 
blue or green shells.

"They have a little more yolk in proportion to white," Rusty Sue 
says. "They're very fresh. We get twice-a-week deliveries from 
independent (producers)."

Organic eggs, which come from hens that are fed organic food, are 
recommended for their taste, too.

Basic preparations of eggs are simple enough to be complex.

In general, eggs should be cooked over low to medium-low heat and 
served immediately. Be extremely careful not to overcook eggs; they 
easily become rubbery.

For scrambled, Simmons suggests the following: Heat the dry pan over 
low to medium-low heat, then add 1 scant teaspoon butter per egg. 
When the butter starts to sizzle, pour in the slightly beaten eggs 
all at once. Stir slowly and constantly with a round wooden spoon for 
large curds, or gently scrape the eggs with the flat edge of a wooden 
or heat-proof rubber spatula to create soft, fluffy curds.

To make soft-cooked eggs, place eggs in a deep, medium or small 
saucepan and add cold water to cover completely. Bring the water to a 
boil and immediately remove the pan from the heat. Cover the pan and 
let stand for 2 minutes for an egg with a runny yolk and a just-set, 
tender white, or 3 minutes for a soft yolk and firm but tender white.

For hard-cooked eggs, place eggs in a saucepan large enough to hold 
them in a single layer. Add tap water to cover by 1 inch. Set over 
medium-high heat and heat, uncovered, until the water is almost 
boiling. Remove the pan from heat and cover. Leave eggs in the hot 
water for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the consistency you prefer.

"Time the eggs precisely while they are in the hot water and drain 
and chill them (in cold water) immediately when the time is up," says 
Simmons. "This keeps them tender, facilitates peeling and prevents 
the formation of a green tinge around the yolk."

It's all in the details. But, says Simmons, "there's nothing more 
simple or beautiful than an egg."


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